DON’T KNOW THE DIFFERENCE between an egret and a heron? An ibis and an osprey?

    Sand Lake National Wildlife Refuge, 27 miles northeast of Aberdeen, is the perfect place to begin understanding birds, and to enjoy a variety of other outdoor pursuits, as well.

    Geese are the refuge’s best known avian resident and visitor. Each fall and spring the skies above Aberdeen are noisy with countless skeins of geese. It is a signature seasonal happening of this place. Most likely the geese you see and hear are coming from or going to Sand Lake refuge.

    In some years as many as one million geese converge on the refuge during migration. The need to protect and provide habitat for migratory waterfowl is the main reason this wildlife sanctuary was established by the federal government in 1935.

    Goose hunting at Sand Lake was hugely popular until the 1980s when Canadian farmers dramatically expanded croplands near waterfowl breeding areas and the geese stayed there later in the fall to feed rather than flying to the Dakotas for the food and fuel they needed to finish their rigorous migration to Texas, Louisiana or other areas many miles to the south.

    Generations of Aberdeen dads and their sons woke well before dawn on cool fall days to make the trip to pits and blinds dug or built in cultivated fields bordering the refuge. It is one of the enduring memories I have of spending time as a youngster with my dad: Ten years old and trudging alongside him, dodging dirt clods in the dark. Then we’d hunker down in a four-foot deep rectangular hole, listening to endless waves of geese overhead as they departed the refuge at daybreak to feed in nearby cornfields. Sometimes the sound of their honking and chatter was almost deafening as they flew close by. We could even hear the muffled swoosh of their rhythmic wing beats. On rainy, foggy mornings those sounds were our only clue that we were among geese. It was exhilarating but mysterious and spooky too. The birds my dad killed during those hunts were large, heavy and beautiful, especially the dark-fronted Canada geese.

    Now the refuge attracts far fewer local hunters but visitors are flocking there.

    It’s likely that few Aberdonians realize the notoriety and biological importance of Sand Lake refuge. Consider that Wild Bird Magazine named Sand Lake as one of the top 15 birding sites in North America, and that birdwatchers from all over the country as well as foreign travelers visit the refuge. Or consider that in 1998 Sand Lake was honored as a “Wetland of International Importance”, one of only 909 such sites on the entire planet. That distinction was followed up in 2002 when the American Bird Conservancy honored the refuge as a “Globally Important Bird Area.”

    135 species of birds nest on the refuge and rear their young there, so there is plenty of summer activity. Also, the world’s largest nesting colony of Franklin’s gulls is found on the refuge. These small gulls prefer prairie wetlands to seacoasts and lakes.

    But bird watching is far from the only activity. Sand Lake is, according to Beth Ullenberg, an outdoor recreation planner at the refuge, “a place that offers something for everyone.” There are, explained Ullenberg, opportunities for fishing, wildlife and nature watching, hiking, biking and photography.

    Ullenberg recommends starting your visit to this 21,498-acre wildlife haven at the refuge headquarters, located 8 miles north of Columbia, South Dakota. There are maps, brochures and other information available. There are also interpretive displays, educational videos and a small bookstore. The headquarters building is open 8 am – 4:30 pm, Monday – Friday, and on some weekends during spring migration. The building’s entryway, including access to restrooms and brochures, is open year-round 24/7 for your convenience.

    Near the headquarters is a 108-foot tall observation tower that affords a panoramic view of the refuge and surrounding countryside. From this vantage you can see there are two large lakes on the refuge, Sand Lake and Mud Lake, and each is controlled by a dam and dike across the James River as the river flows through the refuge. You’ll gaze out at a mosaic of blue and green, with open water, cattail-ringed wetlands, woods, grasslands and croplands. 

    If you can’t climb the tower, interpretive panels at the base show photos of what can be seen from the top.

    Ullenberg also suggests traveling the 15-mile auto tour route that offers great sightseeing and prime wildlife and nature viewing. Be prepared to stop repeatedly to admire waterscapes and landscapes. This route is generally open from April 1 to mid-October, weather permitting.

    The elevated wooden deck overlooking Sand Lake at Stop #10 is a favorite place to enjoy the scenery and watch for wildlife. You might see herons, egrets and a great variety of shorebirds prowling the shallows for food. This summer’s low water conditions and refuge management strategies have created a wide “beach” in front of the lookout. If you decide to explore this beach be careful as you navigate the rocky, rip-rapped slope below the overlook. Then you must weave though a maze of reeds and sedges.

    Elsewhere, there are almost always grebes near Mud Lake dam, another tour stop. Pelicans are common near the dam forming Sand Lake, located near the southwest border of the refuge, very near Highway 16. Bring a bird book whether you’re a novice birder or a veteran.

    The refuge is also undertaking some prairie restoration, with controlled burning in selected areas and a re-planting of native grasses and flowers. One special spot was mantled by brilliant yellow coneflowers in a shimmering sea of foxtail. I repeated the word “incredible” a half-dozen times as I explored the dazzling flora that has been planted here.

    Overall, there are 40 miles of gravel roads through the refuge and these are perfect for hiking or biking or cross-country skiing. Look for mammals like raccoon, deer, skunk and badger. Stay for a magnificent sunset. Enjoy the solitude, quiet and the absence of industrial sounds.

    If you bring lunch, the Columbia Day Use Area has picnic tables, restrooms, and a sun shelter. It also provides a splendid view of Sand Lake and a short (3/4 mile) hiking trail along the lake. This maintained area is not far south of the refuge headquarters on Highway 16. And if you or your party need a bit of
refreshment enroute home, there is a pleasant log cabin-style tavern along Highway 16 in the town of Columbia. It is family-friendly.

 
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